NEXT STOP PUNAKHA

Monday, April 6, 2009

The road towards Punakha, which is built around the massive historical Punakha Dzong (monastery), takes us along a gorge in the bottom of which flows a turbulent river glittering in the bright morning sunshine. At a bridge and military checkpoint – the latter are wherever you enter a new province; we can see the confluence of two rivers moving towards a hydroelectric plant (which we cannot see). Apparently Bhutan successfully exports electricity to India. An hour or so later we reach the highest point, the Dochu La, unfortunately shrouded in the mist, because from there you are supposed to see the distant Bhutan mountain range. They have never been climbed by man, since they are considered to be holy. We can however walk around in the mist and admire the many prayer flags strung between the trees and see the 108 ‘chortens’ - sort of offering columns, which were built in atonement for the losses of life in a 2005 border skirmish. The Bhutan people believe all conflict can be resolved peacefully and resort to violence and war only when there is no other option. The setting is mysterious and Kurosawa-movie-like. We have tea at a restaurant right at the top and consider the several and usual matted dogs sleeping on the ground outside. The road continues to weave around the edge of the mountains and the unflappable Ugen takes us very close to the edge indeed. I assume there is a rule that if you see a truck before you, you beep and overtake – on a curve, whether you can see oncoming traffic or not, or whatever. Conversely, those approaching a curve slow down. I’d like to see that practiced in Brazil – or in India, for that matter.

We are almost at our destination, the Zangthok Pelhri hotel, when I spot a vegetable market – vendors squatting on the ground next to their wares displayed in baskets and folded down sacks under an improvised plastic awning. We get to stop and take pictures of some of the exotic vegetables – amongst which lie some pitifully small ‘jacas’ – and then move on to the hotel, which is situated on a hilltop. When we inspect our rooms, Ole says – in his Danish way – ‘It is not as good as the Raunuk Plaza in Delhi’ ha-ha. We know what THAT was like. But we have a balcony with a view to unspeakably beautiful rolling hills and bed and running hot and cold water. We’re just fine. We descend to the usual buffet lunch and then move on to the Punakha Dzong, supposed to be the best of its kind – the Versailles of Bhutan. It is indeed an amazing structure, with many courtyards with overhanging intricately decorated balconies, though which we meander admiring details like the Snake altar on our way. At the entrance of the grand hall – where the kings are crowned – we pocket our cameras and remove our shoes – forgot those socks again! What awaits us inside is simply stunning. Gold glimmers from 54 pillars, many of them made from real gold, and at the end of the room sit 3 huge statues of Buddha, the Guru Rinpoche (the founder of Nyingma Buddhism, who flew in on a flaming tigress in the 8^th century),and the Zhabdrung with another 3 older statues behind. Everywhere are flowers, silken hangings, and robed saints behind glass. Saffron robed young apprentice monks are cleaning the room after a ceremony. Some are more willing than others and I see a supervisor push a slow kid into action. Some are using the traditional brooms, which – apart from being excruciating – are remarkably inefficient, composed of a bunch of branches about 50 cm long. The back wall is covered with a floor to ceiling painting of the life of Buddha, the story of which Tchiring tells so well in his perfect English that other tourists stop to listen.

At this point there is no mistaking my cold. I fell hot/cold/tired/heavy and I know only a miracle will have me hiking the next day. I draw our guide aside and suggest he start thinking of a plan B for me

Pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/schateaubriand/LeavingParoTheDochuLaPassAndThePanukhaDzong#